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a box of frosty paws treatsFrosty Paws frozen treat for dogs

Dogs!

Americans love 'em, because they remind of us of what it's like to care about something other than our own fat, acquisitive, largely self-contained lives. And while it may seem seditious during this time of national crisis to question the expansive and all-encompassing perfection of the American character, it is true that we are well acquainted with the remote control, the caller ID box, the self-activating security spotlight, the pulsating sex doll, the self-service gas station, the microwave dinner and the ravages of cable television. We're good at building a moat to protect ourselves against intimacy or unpredictable events, and pulling the drawbridge up good and high.

Americans aren't a social people. Really. We aren't. We have our barbecues and the occasional block party, but we generally like to seal ourselves up. There's a reason we work in cubicles. We grumble about it, but we never revolt. We are an asocial people, and our technology keeps the world at bay.

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"She's like a heroin addict looking for her fix..." More ›
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But it's just not healthy. Dogs break us out of that. They make us play in the park, and run through the city, and talk to other dog owners about their dogs. And they love us — they look up at us with warm, kind, gentle eyes, promising unqualified affection. And they can be ignored most of the time, when they're not convenient. And then loved again when needed. Like a perfect child, only furrier, and without the need for a college tuition fund.

So it probably makes sense that we spoil our pets. We have doggie spas, and doggie restaurants and doggie fashion accoutrements and a lot of other really terrible things that dogs can probably take or leave, but that make us feel like we're really pampering Ginger, which in turn reminds us of our own deep generosity. Perfect.

And so we come to the gourmet doggie treat.

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Reader E-mail

"I LOVE FPs like you do! When Mom gives me mine, I'm in 7th HEAVEN!!!!!" More ›
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There is a certain amount of inherent humor about making a culinary fuss for an animal that, if left to its own devices, will gleefully eat a piece of poop with corn in it.

So the idea that dogs require — or particularly care for — a frozen treat resembling but not actually emulating ice cream seems a bit far-fetched.

But Frosty Paws is going to try and sell us on the concept, regardless. The packaging is effective. It's wicked effective. The cover of the box is an artistic rendering of what may be the happiest Terrier ever conceived by the human imagination. Its bright little eyes and big, happy tongue telegraph pure canine delight. And the red plaid scarf it wears says: "My owner pampers me. And I love it. Feel my cuteness! Tremble before it!"

Needless to say, the dog's tail is poised in "wag" position.

So, it's hard not to resist buying a box of Frosty Paws and trying them at home. We've all tried dog food at one point or another — on a dare, on a bet or as a curious youngster. Perhaps we used to snack on handfuls of Kibbles 'n Bits during class in college. It's not at all unusual.

At all.

So frozen dog treats seemed like a logical step, and a good way to bridge the human/canine gap. A friend agreed to help with the sampling, so before embarking on a three-hour viewing of Lawrence of Arabia, we opened up the box of Frosty Paws and popped out one of the small, single-serving plastic cups of dog treat material.

My human dining companion took a small bite, and immediately ran to the bathroom. After spending several minutes generating little retching noises, he began cursing at me.

"Can you describe the flavor?" I asked, pen and paper in hand. "I need to write a review of it."

His unintelligible reply was distinctly hostile, tinged by a note of betrayal. He then began washing out his mouth. It would seem that the tasting and writing would be left to the reporter.

Frosty Paws tastes pretty terrible, at first. It has a flavor like glue, or coagulated gravy, but colder. But then after a few seconds, it begins to melt and the taster is swept away by a nuanced but overpowering compulsion to barf like a sailor on shore leave.

Human packaging. Human concept. But a taste only a dog — or a carrion bird, perhaps — could love. "I have seen this stuff in action, and one dog I personally know goes positively crazy with joy when she gets this delicious treat," says one website. But "sometimes the rest of the dog says it just doesn't like this foreign substance," says another.

To the credit of Associated Ice Cream, the ingredients on the side of the box do prominently mention "animal fat." And while it might be helpful to potential human tasters to print this on the box's cover, it's understandable that they bury the headline and stick with the happy Terrier.

Run-DMC has words of advice for those who would eat dog food: "You be illin'."

Sage words, Run-DMC. Sage words.

James Norton (jrnorton@flakmag.com)

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Shaving With Lather
Killin' Your Own Kind
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